Ever since
I can remember, I have always had an obsession to go to Brazil.
Finally I got a chance to go in an inexpensive way; and I was
not disappointed. I found people who love Carnival, samba, soccer
and all the other good things in life. Brazilians love welcoming
visitors with a radiant smile on their faces. There is energy
everywhere, in the colors and tastes of the fruits, aromas, spices,
music, and folklore or in shouting "GOAL!"
My guide, Luiz Felipe Amaral, waited for me patiently at the airport,
even though the flight was slightly delayed. I met Luiz on the
web while doing research for my trip. He turned out to be more
than a guide he is a true friend.
While in Rio, I became an honorary "CARIOCA"- a term
that the locals call themselves. I felt relatively safe in most
of the areas I visited, and I think Rio's reputation as violent
is really unfair. In addition to the federal and military police,
there is a new corps of municipal police. They help control traffic
and keep the side walks relatively free of vendors.
The first stop was to Corcovado where we went to the statue of
Christ the Redeemer. From this great vantage point, you can see
all of Rio.
I stayed at Mar Ipanema Hotel. This is the best hotel on Visconde
de Piraja, Ipanema's main street. It is only two blocks from Ipanema
beach at Anibal de Mendonca. Although the twin beds were rather
small, the rooms were very pleasantly appointed, and at $60 per
night, including full breakfast, this was a great bargain.
Walking is one of the best ways to explore the South Side neighborhoods.
I walked to the beaches, restaurants and most places of interest.
I used public buses to far away places, like Sugarloaf, the Botanical
Gardens, etc. A ride on a public bus is about 40 cents, and you
pay a "cobrador", who sits behind a turnstile to collect
your money and give you change. There are bus lines connecting
the whole city.
I took public bus transportation to Urca and Sugarloaf. Urca
is mostly a residential neighborhood. It is said that several
local artists live there. This is where you take the cable cars
first to Urca Hill, and then to the Sugarloaf. The view of Rio
is definitely worth the $10.00 fee.
You don't have to go far either to find a taxi in Rio-they are
everywhere. And not easy to miss, too-all taxis are bright yellow,
with a blue stripe on the side.
At the beaches many cariocas practice what is know as foot-volley,
where you are not allowed to touch the ball with your hands. It
is not unusual to see a pregnant woman proudly walking in a bikini.
Of the churrasearis (All you can eat places), I like Carratao,
on Rua Visconde de Piraja in Ipanema, the best. for about $8.00
you eat all the first class meat, fowl, and salads you desire.
Another great place to eat, if you want to try the local Brazilian
dish of feijoada, is Casa de Feijoada at 10 Rua Prudente de Morais.
Feijoada is bean stew originally concocted by slaves using leftover
pork parts. It has since then been mainstreamed and better grades
of meats are used today.
For souvenirs, wait until you go to one of the Hippie Fairs. You
can walk the maze of stands, meet talented artisans, jewelers,
painters, and sculptors, and get really good bargains on T-shirts
and other stuff.
By this time I was feeling Rio good.
On one of the days, I spent half a day at the Botanical Gardens.
This huge park in the heart of the South Side is less than ten
minutes away from Ipanema. Later in the evening, we went to the
biggest soccer stadium in the world, Maracana, to watch an exiting
cup final game between Flamengo of Rio versus Plameirros of Sao
Paulo. The locals say that I must have brought them luck, because
Flamengo has not been playing well of late, but they won on that
day!
We took a tow-day excursion to Buzios; Brazils most famous resort,
just two hours away from Rio. It is a peninsula with over 20 fine
beaches. This is where we tasted the famous capixaba fish, moqueca,
a typical spicy fish of the region, served right on the beach.
While in Buzios, I stayed at Maravista Pousada (Bed and Breakfast)
that is owned by Julio Linhares and his wife, and located on Geriba
beach. Julio is an engineer and his wife is an architect and they
have combined their talents to transform their home into one of
the best Pousadas in Buzios.
Although I was in Rio before the carnival season began, preparations
were well underway at several Samba Schools. I attended the rehearsal
by Mantueira School, and got intoxicated by the level of energy
in the hall.
I can hardly wait to go back to Rio and visit during the carnival
season. |